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The Lac Tele "death march"... Please click on the images to see enlargements.
During the month of March I was asked to go on an expedition to the Larsen Ice Shelf in Antarctica. Bracing myself for the intense cold, I went ahead with the intense medical procedures required for access aboard the US icebreaker ship that sailed from Punta arenas in South America towards the south pole.
After some deliberating and argueing, the National Geographic Channel decided that the thread of the potential story line would not be strong enough to ensure an exciting narrative, and they pulled the production. Simultaneously, I had a call from NGT&F, asking if I would join another expedition to the Congo. From one extreme to the next I accepted, tossing aside a heap of looming technical challenges for a new set!
We were to hike into Lac Tele, a bizarre muddy sinkhole in the middle of the largest continuous tract of lowland swamp forest on the planet. The purpose was for me to shoot the body of a film that showcased Dr Brady Barr's numerous giant snake captures, introducing both the storyline as well as different biological and environmental factors pertaining to the various snakes themselves.
Hunting the Lac Tele shore.
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Shooter & python.
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The elders of Boa.
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Resting during the death-march.
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Purifying water.
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The abridged version of the journey to the edge of the forest (were we would set out on foot) goes as follows:
Brady Barr, Mitch Eaton & Carrie Regan set out from Washington DC, myself from South Africa. Meet in Brazzaville, sample Ngok Beer and proceed to local departures (for which we still had to clear customs...) to board an ancient, creaking Antonov aircraft complete with red velvet interior, smoke machine, greenhouse effect and a cargo of bananas. Negotiate a slot in the forest, dodge the last wrecked Antonov and touch down at Impfondo. Meet Hugo from WCS and bounce off in 4x4 vehicles towards Epena, the WCS base in the area.
Repack into waterproof cases and bags our 13 bags of equipment, and set off in long dugout canoes with outboard motors 30 odd miles downstream to Boa, where negotaitions for access to the forest began.
The elders of Boa ensure a difficult passage into the forest by keeping us sitting on a log in front of grumpy spear wielding villagers, haggling over money and past grievances. The following day we get permission to leave, along with 38 porters and a truckload of gear, including two canoes. Dissappearing into the forest wall we begin what was to be a gruelling 30 mile hike through undergrowth, mud and water; getting stung by bees and what seemed like every type of stinging ant under the sun.
After three days of trekking, putting up with bad water, extreme humidity and fighting porters, we burst into sunlight on the swampy shore of Lac Tele. Camp was set up amid the aerial roots of shoreline forest trees, and we began hunting for Dwarf and Slender Snouted Crocodiles and Giant Pythons. We'd already stumbled on a Gaboon Viper on the path during the trek, but we were relying on a big Python to seal the success of the trip.
Due to what seemed like excessive bushmeat hunting by the village of Boa, the wildlife was relatively scarce. Gorillas and Chimps fled on hearing our approach, Mangabeys, Gwenins and Colobus Monkeys kept to the very top of giant canopy trees and the crocodilians were particularly secretive.
Our success was sealed by the fact that we accomplished the bare minimum amount of captures required. Apart from the Gaboon Viper, Brady managed a difficult approach and capture of an agressive Dwarf Croc, many juvenile Slender Snouts were captured, and on the final day after exhausting suspense, he managed to wrestle a giant Python out of a muddy clump of tree root.
Having to repeat the whole trek back to Boa four days later was a daunting prospect, but the motivation to get away from the bees, uncomfortable sleeping environment and angry porters were great motivating factors! Weathering a tropical jungle hurricane on leaving Boa was all part of the days events, getting back to Epena in the pitch black, wet and cold on the dugout.
Getting back to Brazzaville and recouping at the Hippocampe was a great reward for a difficult but successful trip.
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